Monday, May 17, 2021

CavFab Jeep CrossOver Steering (XJ/TJ/ZJ/MJ)-CFK000

Get discount prices, fast shipping and ultimate product help when shopping for Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Performance Steering Upgrades at 4 Wheel Parts. The best online destination and local store solution for all of your Truck and Jeep off-roading needs!XJ and ZJ are both 3 bolt mounts with the factory boxes. Many ZJ'ers upgrade to the Waggy box to get the 4th mounting bolt as breaking the mounting tabs on the steering box is very common on ZJs. November 23rd, 2012, 03:59 PM #15Jeep TJ / LJ / XJ / MJ Heavy Duty Steering Upgrade, Rock Jock $649.99 Add To Cart. Compare Needle Bearing Roller for Tie Rod $74.99 Add To Cart. Compare Universal Steering Kit for Aluminum Dash $999.99 Add To Cart. Compare Hi-Steer Kit for Currie Rock Jock Front Axle (Non-JK) $1,299.99 Add To Cart.Our high clearance crossover steering kit is the perfect match for your XJ, MJ, TJ or ZJ. Made in the USA of the highest quality components and unmatched workmanship. Features: 1.5" x .250 DOM Drag Link & Tie Rod Precision bent using NC tubing bender Grade 8 Hardware Standard High Clearance links May be used OverAmazon's Choice for xj steering upgrade. Rugged Ridge 18050.82 Heavy-Duty Crossover Steering Conversion Kit for 84-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ/XJ/ZJ. 4.5 out of 5 stars 146. $299.99 $ 299. 99. Get it as soon as Thu, Feb 18. FREE Shipping by Amazon. Currie Enterprises CE-9701 Heavy Duty Tie Rod System.

XJ: Durango steering box swap? - Colorado4x4.org

Rusty's Jeep Steering Systems address the flaws in the factory Jeep steering linkage and are designed to work properly with lifted vehicles. Our steering conversion converts the factory Y type linkage to T type linkage. This eliminates bump steer, wandering, and other poor handling characteristics. It also offers a significant strength improvement over the weak factroy steering linkage.Give your steering setup incredible durability with Rough Country's HD Steering Kit. Off-road obstacles such as rocks and logs can wreak havoc on your factory steering components. This handy steering upgrade replaces the weak factory tie-rod and drag link with a massive 1.5in DOM tube replacement that's considerably larger than stock and ready to withstand off-road torture.Jeep XJ Steering Upgrade Buying Guide. With this buying guide, you'll safely spend your money on the perfect steering for your Jeep XJ. That said, let's jump right into the features you must look out for when upgrading. Jeep XJ Crossover Steering vs Inverted-Y Steering.Iron Rock says this kit works with 3"-8" of lift - and it does - but you probably want at least 4". My XJ has a 3" lift, and I had to shorten the drag link to the absolute shortest possible length by forcing the heim joints and adjuster as far into the threads as possible to get it onto my pitman arm, and the steering wheel is still canted about 30 degrees.

XJ: Durango steering box swap? - Colorado4x4.org

Shop For Jeep Steering Kits | Jeep Hi Steer Kit | Offroad

XJ Steering UpGrades. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 17 of 17 Posts. B. brakemanbobsmith · Registered. Joined Jun 17, 2017 · 4 Posts . Discussion Starter • #1 • Jun 27, 2017. Ok it's time to look into replacing my steering on my 2001 XJ.Larger wheel and tire combinations, in addition to suspension modifications can really take a toll on the stock steering linkage in your Jeep. Heavy duty steering kits consist of larger components that can stand up to the higher demands and abuse of off-road travel.Check Out Xj Steering Upgrade On eBay. Fill Your Cart With Color Today!This was installed on an XJ with 4.5" of lift and 33" tires. The steering came out okay, although my stock steering seemed more responsive which is a little disappointing. Adding the stabilizer improves things, however the Rancho bracket JCR suggests cannot be used in my setup because it rubs the trackbar when steering is turned left.Currie makes a great setup for TJs, XJs, and ZJs. Here is their description: Currect-Lync, the Currie heavy duty tie rod and drag link system for TJ, XJ, and MJ vehicles features a 1 1/4" diameter forged chromoly drag link, 1 1/4" chromoly bar stock tie rod that is bored and threaded on the ends.

3 Jeep XJ Frame Stiffeners to Keep Your Cherokee From Tearing Itself Apart

Common Problems

Big tires may end up in big dying wobbles.

While some of this is due to the Cherokee's puny steering and no longer amazing design, occasionally it's simply deficient maintenance. A few issues you can do are:

Follow This Upgrade Plan

The elementary collection we'd apply for upgrading your XJ's steering looks as if this:

Use RuffStuff's "The Cure" bushing/boot (from RuffStuff Specialties)Replace the dinky stock aluminum steering field spacer with a metal one (from JcrOffroad)Add a steering box brace (from M.O.R.E.)Upgrade your XJ to at least one ton steering (from RuffStuff or Currie Enterprises)Consider Jeep XJ frame stiffeners for the unibody

Before you upgrade to 1 ton steering, it's truly necessary to improve the steering box mount with a metal spacer and a brace to stay the field body ripping off the thin unibody.

If you will throw on some giant tires or do serious wheeling, you must very a lot imagine welding on body stiffeners to:

Make the XJ's unibody extra rigidProvide thicker mount issues for links, crossmembers, etc.

The Cure: RuffStuff's Cheap Solution to Less Jeep XJ Steering Slop

Upgrade Jeep CJ, YJ, XJ, and TJ Steering with The Cure The cure gets rid of a whole lot of slop out of your drag hyperlink flopping round. Fits stock 5/8" steering or 3/4" 1 ton steering.

The Cure for 1 Ton Steering on Your Jeep Cherokee XJ The Cure also comes with a 3/4" ID for 1 ton GM TREs.

If you might be simply looking to do away with some steering slop, RuffStuff Specialties patented slightly disk they call "The Cure". It's a piece of Delrin that sandwiches between the drag hyperlink and the tie rod.

This doesn't simply have compatibility Jeep XJ Cherokees, it suits other Jeeps as neatly, plus 1 ton steering setups.

The method it really works is simple:

Lots of Jeeps have slightly dead spot in their steering. This occurs if you find yourself turning the wheel, the drag link strikes, and the drag hyperlink "flops" from front-to-back (of back-to-front) of the tie rod.

How the Cure Goes Together You too can set up The Cure on 1 ton steering in your XJ to tighten it up.

That little further flop is the source of your useless spot, and happens because the stock rubber drag hyperlink finish boot is soft and flexy - Delrin is more difficult, easy, and self-lubing, so that you won't have that flop.

Installation is inconspicuous:

Removing the drag hyperlink from the tie rodRemoving the rubber boot from the drag link end (and toss it)Install "The Cure" in place of the rubber bootReinstall the drag hyperlink

The Cure is best for use on the junction of the drag link and tie rod - now not at the knuckles or pitman. That manner you best want one.

Jeep Rubber Tie Rod Boot Replaced With the Cure By changing the cushy rubber boot with the tougher Delrin, the drag link doesn't shift every time you turn the steering wheel.

The Cure fits a bunch of different Jeeps:

1984 to 2001 XJ Cherokee1997 to 2006 TJ Wrangler, Rubicon and Unlimited1986 to 1992 MJ Comanche1987 to 1996 YJ Wrangler1993 to 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ

Note!

Sometimes, chances are you'll want to shave or trim The Cure down to get it to seat appropriately.

The ID for the Jeep XJ Cure is 5/8". Since 1 ton steering for XJs will have a equivalent flopping drawback, RuffStuff additionally makes it in a three/4" ID for 1 ton steering.

Apparently, there's a rubber/metal stock part for older full dimension Jeeps that is similar to The Cure, however we do not have the phase number.

Reinforce It

1) Replace Your Stock Cracked Steering Box Spacer

Jeep Cherokee XJ Stock Aluminum Steering Box Spacer Do you want this little thing between your XJ's unibody and steering equipment? Nope.

JCR Offroad Jeep Cherokee XJ Steering Box Spacer This CNC-cut spacer replaces the stock XJ aluminum spacer. It's powdercoated and bolts-in - no drilling or welding.

Did you realize that your XJ has a steering box spacer sandwiched between the frame and the box?

It's aluminum, skeletal-looking, and breaks a lot on even moderately-wheeled rigs. It almost certainly has a tendency to crack on XJs where the unibody reviews numerous flex. The cast aluminum is not ductile, so it cracks as an alternative of bending.

This is a must-fix when you plan to run big tires or do exhausting wheeling.

JCR Offroad Jeep Cherokee XJ Steering Box Spacer - Closeup The crimson plate within the most sensible of this photograph is the steering tools spacer. It'll stiffen the unibody up and is more potent and extra ductile than the aluminum spacer.

But it is a very easy repair:

Replace it with a steel steering box spacer.

It's as simple as unbolting your steering box, slipping out your unhappy, damaged aluminum spacer, and replacing it with a brand new metal spacer.

Do you wish to have it?

Yes, a spacer and a brace are almost definitely the primary belongings you must upgrade on your steering if you are running large tires or a locker.

A metal replacement steering field spacer for your XJ, like the one from JcrOffroad, will hold up on the other hand lengthy you want to wheel your rig.

This is a bolt-on section - no drilling or welding required.

The JcrOffroad spacer is CNC-cut from 3/16" steel plate and powdercoated to final without rusting. It also comprises mounting hardware - it is a good thought to use crimson Loctite on the bolt threads so they don't work free.

Check price on Amazon 2) Hold Your Steering Box in Place with a Steering Box Brace

M.O.R.E. Bolt-on Jeep Cherokee XJ steering tools brace elements M.O.R.E.'s brace bolts-on and calls for you to enlarge only one hole for installation.

Do you favor the speculation of ripping your XJ's steering box off your body?

Probably now not.

That's why you need a steering field brace in your XJ.

M.O.R.E. Jeep Cherokee Steering Box Brace Installed This steering box brace from M.O.R.E. secures your steering tools up against the frame rail to stay it from tearing off.

The brace bolts round the sector shaft casting on the steering box and then ties into the body at the passenger aspect. There are weld-on and bolt-on braces, however we predict the most efficient brace is a bolt-on - it's much easier to put in.

Do you need it?

If you're going to run big tires or a locker in your XJ, that is some other must-do with a steel spacer.

The M.O.R.E. steering brace bolts on easily. You do not wish to make any mods instead of enlarging one frame gap to 7/16".

To see how simple the set up is, take a look at the instructions.

Check value on Amazon 3) Reduce Unibody Flex with Frame Stiffeners

RuffStuff Frame Stiffener Fishmouth RuffStuff's entrance stiffeners are available in 3 pieces in step with aspect to lead them to more straightforward to install. The reinforcement plates fishmouth together the place they meet.

The XJ's unibody construction is notorious for its flexibility.

Get too crossed up on a path, and you may no longer be able to open your doorways.

While body stiffeners aren't an instantaneous steering upgrade, they're something to believe if you'll be doing laborious wheeling. They'll lower the total frame flexibility for your XJ, which is a good thing if you wish to have tight steering.

They supplement large tires that put a variety of leverage to your suspension, and so they additionally provide you with a solid position for mounting suspension points, rock sliders, and drivetrain mounts.

We're showing just the front frame stiffeners from RuffStuff here, however you can plate your XJ's body from the front to the rear if you need.

Check worth on Amazon

Jeep XJ Steering Kits - WHAT TO LOOK FOR

If your want to substantially make stronger your XJ's steering and strength, take a look at putting in place a equipment that has bigger tie rod ends (or heims), a larger tie rod, and a larger drag link. Most XJ house owners that are upgrading to one ton steering are looking for Three things:

Strong steeringNo loss of life wobbleReasonable articulation while fourwheeling

Let's simply be aware right here:

If you are looking at 1 ton steering for your XJ, that means you already have a steel steering field spacer put in along side a steering box brace, at the least. If your tires and lift justify huge TREs and hyperlinks, we are assuming you may have executed the elemental reinforcement that each and every XJ wheeler will have to do.

Now:

Depending in your Jeep, the Dana 30 or Dana 44 steering linkage leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to power and dealing with.

So, there are a couple of tactics to succeed in these goals and other producers have different takes on the most productive steering gadget. So, listed here are some concept and details:

Do You Need Crossover Steering?

Crossunder Steering With crossunder steering the tie rod is mounted beneath the knuckle mount. This is a particularly commonplace mounting on all types of cast axle 4x4s. The tie rod is low and prone to rocks, which is why many upgrades make the tie rod super thick.

Crossover Steering With crossover steering you get better angles and your tie rod is up and out of the best way. But it's normally more paintings and calls for some drilling or mild fabrication.

If you are lifting your XJ over 4-6" you should look into crossover steering.

On a stock Jeep Cherokee XJ, the tie rod is mounted under the knuckles.

If you upgrade your steering to "crossover" style, the tie rod is moved to the top of the knuckles.

What's the difference?

There are two important things:

First, when the tie rod is moved on top of the knuckle, it's out of the way of rocks and obstacles that might bend it when you're out on the trail. This is a good thing if you're doing a lot of trail time, but we don't see it as hugely essential.

While there's been a pretty big trend to go with crossover steering for all types of 4x4s, there are plenty of people doing low-lift, big-tire builds that stick with the low steering. It's not too hard to gently winch or drag out a bent tie rod on the trail anyway.

The second thing to think about is "How excessive is your elevate?". The higher you lift your suspension, the more extreme the drag link angle becomes.

The ideal setup for your XJ would be that your tie rod and drag link would be parallel. Of course, this is the real world.

That ain't happenin' and the drag link is angled even in the stock configuration.

However, if you move up the tie rod, you can flatten the angle between the tie rod and drag link and improve your steering. Most crossunder XJ steering upgrades are rated for around 4-6" of carry. You might be able to move larger, however realize that there'll be compromises in your steering.

If you wish to have to drop your perspective, many elevate kits include drop pitman hands, or you'll be able to pick one up separately.

Tie Rod Taper

From the manufacturing facility, your Cherokee will have a 5/8" taper at the pitman arm and knuckles. If you're breaking tie rod ends, or think you might, the best thing to do is make them bigger!

You have generally have two options here:

Drill them straight out to 5/8" or 3/4": This allows you to use a 5/8" or 3/4" heim joint.Use a taper reamer to resize to a 1.5" per foot taper: This permits you to use the 1 ton GM tie rod ends/drag link ends.

We'll talk more underneath about tie rod ends vs heims, but let's communicate in regards to the drilling and tapering first.

Neither possibility is particularly difficult. If you're going to drill to 5/8" or 3/4" you want a 1/2" drill. Go slowly, use oil to lube the bit as you drill - there isn't much to it.

Tapering? It's a tiny bit trickier, but not much.

You need a taper reamer and, again, a 1/2" drill. Put the taper reamer within the gap and follow power whilst drilling. Use plenty of oil.

With the taper reamer, you wish to have to concentrate on keeping the drill square to the knuckle or pitman and verify have compatibility the tie rod or drag link finish frequently while reaming.

Very necessary!

GM tie rod ends and drag link ends have the same taper (taper is the exchange in diameter along the period), but the end diameters are different - make sure that you're constantly test-fitting so you don't over-ream!

Tie Rod Ends vs. Heim Joints

Tie Rod Ends vs. Heim Joints Generally, we recommend TREs for street-driven rigs and heims for fourwheeling when you need the most powerful conceivable power.

Ah, the nice debate, TREs vs. heims. A normal rule of thumb is this:

TREs for the street, TREs or heims for fourwheeling.

Tie rod ends are a ball joint mounted in single shear with a tapered joint. They're secured with a jam nut at the shank and a citadel nut and cotter pin on the tapered side.

They have zerks that may be full of grease, are easily available, and the 1 ton joints you'll use in an Jeep XJ are super robust.

Heim joints are a ball joint mounted in unmarried or double shear with a instantly joint. Instead of a tapered "pin", they have a directly through-hole. They're secured with a jam nut on the shank end and bolted with a bolt in the through-hole.

Heims are excellent for when you want tons of steering articulation. If you'll be able to mount them in double shear, they'll be stronger than a similar tie rod finish.

"Farm" kind heims are not great for working on a Cherokee - you should search for some upper high quality teflon-lined heims that have the tight tolerances you want in your steering. 

We choose tie rod ends for an XJ that is going to peer a number of street use. TREs last more and you don't have to fret about preserving the joint tight. (You may just safety twine your heims, however we don't see a lot of other folks doing that in observe.)

TREs may have a little less articulation, however they're effective in an XJ whilst you use the high-misalignment GM 1 ton joints.

Tie Rod and Drag Link Tubing

For maximum steering upgrade kits, XJ Cherokee house owners have two options:

DOM tubing: Kits with Drawn Over Mandrel Tubing have a tendency to come in 1.125" diameter to 1.5" diameter sizes.Solid tubing: There is one kit available in the market with a solid steel drag hyperlink and tie rod!

Which one will have to you get?

Strengthwise, the choices are ordered like this:

Tie Rod/Drag Link Strength, Solid vs. Hollow Strongest Solid 1.5" Rod Middle 1.5" DOM tubing, 0.25" wall Weakest 1.125" DOM tubing, 0.25" wall

It mustn't come as a huge marvel that larger and thicker metal is more potent than smaller, thinner steel. But it's a little extra nuianced than that.

Structually speaking, when a tube or rod needs to resist a bending load, the majority of the weight is carried furthest from the middle of mass - in different phrases, searching at the finish of a metal rod, the outside of it does the most paintings. You can get rid of a lot of the interior and still get related strength.

So:

While the solid rod is in the long run stronger than the 1.5" 0.25" wall tube, it's not going to make a huge distinction out on the trail. If you're waffling between a few steering upgrade kits on your XJ, tube or cast almost definitely shouldn't be the deciding factor.

If you are making your XJ into a light-weight trail rig, round tubing is an easy area to kill some weight whilst retaining your steering sturdy.

Tie Rod Dent Resistence

With a sufficient diameter, you can make your tie rod super proof against bending. But if you need it to be in point of fact robust, you want it to be thick.

A skinny tie rod that will get dented will weaken and bend at the dent.

Make sure that any steering package you put on your XJ uses no less than 1/4" wall tube if you wish to have energy upgrades to your steering.

Steering Upgrades for Jeep XJ Cherokees

Jeep XJ 1 Ton Steering Upgrade from RuffStuff RuffStuff 1 Ton XJ Steering Upgrade Facts Tie Rod/Drag hyperlink subject matter 1.5" 0.25" wall DOM tube Link ends GM 1 ton Crossover/crossunder? Crossunder Fab required? Taper ream knuckles and pitman Check worth on Amazon

RuffStuff Specialties Jeep XJ 1 Ton Steering Kit With replaceable 1 ton GM tie rod ends and large 1.5" hyperlinks, this can be a super sturdy equipment. You'll need to ream your knuckles and pitman arm for the GM taper.

This equipment from RuffStuff Specialties ticks the entire bins for us. It comes cut and welded,  it is moderately painless to put in, it's strong, and it fixes your steering.

The equipment uses the typical 7/8" shank GM 1 ton tie rod and drag link ends. The pitman end is high-misalignment.

It does have a crossunder tie rod, but it uses large 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM steel tube - at that size it'll be dent and bend proof for all but the worst abuse. With  a crossover tie rod, you'd also need to do more work to your knuckles.

This is a complete 1 ton steering setup for your XJ, from the steering box to the knuckles.

To install it, you need to:

It's made in the USA.

Need a 1 ton DIY kit that you you weld yourself? It's cheaper and more flexible if you've got a custom setup. Use this kit.

Need an even stronger kit with 3/4" heim joints? It's additionally DIY reducing and welding. Use this kit.

Currie Heavy Duty Jeep Tie Rod System Currie Heavy Duty Jeep Tie Rod System Facts Tie Rod/Drag link subject material 1.25" solid metal alloy Link ends 7/8" shank with manufacturing facility taper Crossover/crossunder? crossunder Fab required? Bolt-in Check worth on Amazon

Currie Jeep XJ Steering Upgrade Currie's package is 100% bolt on - no welding, drilling, or reaming. Works for 2-6" of elevate and uses your inventory pitman arm.

This is a bolt-on equipment that works with 2-6" of lift. While it doesn't look to us like it should work very well, lots of people love this kit and say that it's made a big difference in the handling of their XJ! Fair enough.

It uses a factory-style T setup, super strong parts, and is set up for crossunder steering.

It's definitely the easiest kit to install - no drilling or reaming are required to put it together.

The tie rod and drag link are solid alloy rod and the TREs have the factory taper. While Currie says this kit is 200% stronger than stock, our concern is that a snapped tie rod end could put you in a pickle.

The drag link in particular has an integrated end that would require replacement of the whole rod when it wears out.

The kit expects you to use stock parts from knuckles to pitman arm. That means that if you have a lift kit with a dropped pitman, you'll want to dig out your stock one and reinstall it.

To set up it, you wish to have to:

Ensure you might have a inventory pitman armBolt at the tie rod and drag hyperlink CavFab Jeep XJ Crossover Steering CavFab Jeep XJ Crossover Steering Facts Tie Rod/Drag hyperlink subject material 1.5" forged rod Link ends 5/8" heim Crossover/crossunder? both Fab required? Drill knuckles and pitman Check worth on CavFab

CavFab Crossover or Under XJ Steering Kit (with heims) This has the strongest tie rod and drag link with solid 1.5" rod. You need to drill your knuckle and pitman for the 5/8" heim joints and just remember to test them ceaselessly.

This kit from CavFab replaces your tie rod and drag link with solid 1.5" diameter steel rod! Both will both definitely resist bending more than any other XJ steering kit.

This kit does not use tie rod ends - it uses 5/8" heim joints. Teflon-lined alloy heim joints will last more than undeniable metal, but tie rod ends will last more than those heims.

One of the benefits to this equipment is that you'll run the tie rod underneath the knuckle (like stock) or over the knuckle. You drill the knuckles once, out to five/8" and can swap at will.

This is pretty handy, but if you're doing street miles, make sure you properly torque the heim bolts. Loose bolts can wallow out holes, break, or just fall apart. There is no castle nut/cotter pin combo to retain the nut like a TRE.

To install it, you need to:

Drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8"Bolt on the tie rod and drag link in a UTK or OTK configuration

Made in the USA.

CavFab Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ CrossOver Steering! - Page 12 - Jeep Cherokee Forum

CavFab Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ CrossOver Steering! - Page 12 - Jeep Cherokee Forum

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